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The Process

Process is important. It makes or breaks the system by which leather footwear is properly constructed. It has a rich history and the processes involved in making leather footwear are many. From the ancient footwear of the Egyptians to the modern-day cowboy, leather has always been a logical and valued material. Today, many forms of footwear do not use genuine leather but replace them with cheap synthetics or imitation materials, which fail rapidly.

​Our process uses all genuine leather ranging from both vegetable-tanned leathers (primarily used in the footbed materials or the insole and the outsole) and chrome tanned leather for shiny finished leathers for the uppers. Other exotic materials imported from all over the world are used to add a unique texture or look to the boot.

​When it comes to decorative stitching, we use old cast iron Singer machines dating back to World War I and II. Our machines were made all over the world- Japan, Great Britain, Germany and America, and each gives the romantic sound of quality made goods of days gone by. "The last comes first" as the great boot maker, John Lobb, once said, and he was right. The last is a foot mold made out of either composite plastic or wood. This mold or "last" is used to make the footwear three-dimensional. Everything depends upon the last, it must be built first and it must be built correctly, matching as closely as possible to the human foot, while keep the shape and style of footwear in mind. The goal is to make something beautiful that fits well. To make this possible, great attention must be given to the "last", first. We build every last in-store and file them for each customer for the years ahead.

​Next, we make the patterns. In this step, all of the artistic expression of the customer is considered. From elaborate stitching to simple initialing, we make every pair unique in its own way, desiring to give each a personal reflection of its wearer and maker. For cutting designs we primarily use two techniques: Inlay- a process that places one piece of leather beneath another cut-out piece of leather, and attaching it, giving a depth effect. Secondly, a process called Overlay- a process of placing a cut-out design on top of a flat piece of leather and then attaching it. Both require skiving- a process where a piece of leather is tapered from thick to thin, giving one the ability to layer leathers while maintaining a smooth transition.

​When finishing the boots, we use a full leather insole that is shaped to the bottom of the last to make an impression of the customer's foot. From there, a channel is cut in the insole and later will be used to hand sew the welt to the uppers.

​Next, the boot is lasted, set to dry, toe boxed, and welted. Between the leather insole and outsole, we use a metal shank. This ensures solid support in the transition and shape of the arch area beneath the foot. Once this is anchored down, we lay the soles and stitch them on through the welt down through the sole.

​Once the sole is attached and sewn on, we use a woodworking process known as "pegging". Pegs have been used for centuries in the construction of log homes and other wood structures and they "sure up", or wedge, the materials together. In bootmaking, we use a similar process to press and hold down the shank area of the cowboy boot. Several rows of pegs are inserted to ensure everything stays nice and tight. Lemonwood or maple is the most common choice, a round hole is made with an awl and a square peg is inserted. Once driven in, the peg is wet and given time to expand, forming the wedge needed to hold the sole down tightly.

​Lastly, all leather heel stacks are attached, nailed down, and the trimming and finish process begins.

​Once the boots have been inked and burnished to the desired shine, we pull the last out and put on the final coat of conditioner and polish to complete the process. Every step is important and requires the utmost attention to detail.

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